Submitted by Melissa Howsam — Correspondent
From putting out fires to igniting them — so to speak — Rocky Top Culinary Director Adam Jones’ childhood dream to be a forest ranger ultimately landed him behind the line, and on top of his game, as one of the Triangle's top chefs.
During undergrad in Asheville for a degree in environmental biology, a love of natural sciences (no doubt fueled by a childhood penchant for Yogi the Bear) quickly turned to food art when a slew of gigs across several area kitchens unveiled a natural flair and a passion that couldn’t be sated outside the kitchen.
Yet, despite a trending and hyper-competitive field, the talented toque’s rise to the top has been swift — topping out as executive chef (It’s Prime Only, Rocky Mount) by the ripe age of 24.
Now, after cooking it up across the state, and with years under his apron with Rocky Top Hospitality — from sous chef (Michael Dean’s, 2007) to executive chef (Michael Dean’s, Mash House Chop House and Brewery (Fayetteville) and Twister Fork) — Jones dons a new hat as culinary director, bringing his established kitchen brand and skills (last summer he was selected as one of the few top local chefs chosen for Got To Be NC’s Fire in the Triangle culinary competition) to conceptualize the future of the Rocky Top brand, while also filling executive chef duties at the hospitality group’s newest concept, Dean’s Seafood Grill & Bar in Cary.
From a ranger cap to a toque … it’s hard to say what hat Jones will wear next — but, now, still only 33 and vetted in all aspects of the industry, it’s not hard to fathom this top chef someday establishing a concept of his own. Until then, we’ll be happy to take a taste of his vision via Rocky Top’s many o’ hot spots. [Twisted] forks up!
Q&A
What did you want to be when you grew up?
I wanted to be a scientist! I've always had a curiosity about the world we live in, what makes it tick. I went to college for a degree in environmental biology, and even saw myself as forest ranger! Not quite sure what happened there…
The moment you knew you wanted to be a chef?
While in school in Asheville I worked as a line cook in several kitchens and fell in love with it. It was something that I was good at, and could develop my own approach to. A kind of freedom that I couldn't find in most careers.
How do you go from the dish pit (Chaos, Rocky Mount) at 14 to the top of the food chain as exec chef (It's Prime Only (Rocky Mount)) by 24 (2002)?
A lot of hard work! I paid attention to Kevin [Connely] (chef/owner) at Chaos, and learned as much as I could at an early age. I have the scars to prove it! I was willing to do the things necessary to do my job as a dishwasher and still learn how to cook.
You've pretty much covered the kitchens of the state, from Rocky Mount (Chaos, Benvenue Country Club) to Asheville (Grove Park), back through Rocky Mount (It's Prime Only) to OBX (It's Prime Only launch) and downtown Raleigh (It's Prime Only launch, and then traversing Rocky Top to the … top). What stands out as the biggest impact moment or mentor?
My biggest impacts have come with my personal successes and failures. It has not been easy to learn on the fly. Mistakes were made along the way, some small and some big, but I have learned from all of them. My biggest mentors have been, one, Kevin in Rocky Mount. He was willing to teach a teenager everything he knew about cooking and watch him fail at it and fail at it until I could stand on my own. And the other would be Dean Ogan of Rocky Top. He has taught me more about the business side of what I do than any other owner or chef. I look back at my earlier positions and wonder how I ever made it!
So … culinary director for Rocky Top. Impressive. What does this recent career move mean for you? Cooking or creating? Walk us through a day in the life of CD Adam Jones.
Culinary director for Rocky Top has opened some doors for me, for my career. I spent the first bit of it wrapping my head around all of the menus at all of Rocky Top's restaurants — trying to see where I could help each chef become more successful, both in their cuisine and in their numbers. I spend a ton of time on developing relationships with our vendors, developing menu ideas and seeing where I can improve on the already successful concepts. Currently, my daily duties are at Dean's Seafood & Bar, our newest concept in Cary.
Rocky Top's been a major player on the Raleigh dining scene since 1998, and the group seems to be evolving. What's the vision for the future and what's your role in shaping it?
The vision is to get back to basics, to have fun with what we do! We want to provide two things to our guests, hospitality and great food! With Dean's, we want to provide those things in an atmosphere that is both unique and exciting! My roll in this is, working with Dean, coming up with new dishes and using the freshest local and non-local ingredients we can find. I say non-local because you can't find all of the things we provide locally. But I can guarantee the freshness of them!
You just opened Dean's, a newer version of the Raleigh Michael Dean's concept that was the impetus of Rocky Top Hospitality. How is this coming full circle a sign of progress?
It is a reincarnation of sorts of the Michael Dean’s concept, but with some newer additions. We offer the same exciting ever-evolving seafood selections, from our local waters to [those of] Hawaii, Japan and Europe. We scour every source we can for items that you will not find on other menus. We kept the oyster component as well, as we carry anywhere from four to six varieties on the menu on any given week. Some newer additions are innovative cocktails and wine lists, and our beer selection! We have the only cask engine in the area and change our 14 taps seasonally with the finest craft beers we can find, not to mention our list of bottles and bombers! You should come check it out!
OK, so you’re ordering for me a Rocky Top dish. Where am I eating and what am I feasting on?
Well, I would say come to Dean's! You must try some Naked Roy's Beach oysters from Washington's Pugent Sound to start; then try some North Carolina triggerfish with mushroom risotto and tomato jus. Wash it down with a salted cucumber martini and, last but not least, our banana white-chocolate bread pudding!
Yummy! Now, you're behind the line. You only get one ingredient. It's…
Everyone who knows anything about me would be lookin’ for some bacon!
Biggest culinary muse?
That's a tough question; I don't think I could nail it down to one person or thing, but I would have to say my biggest inspiration comes from home, North Carolina. There are very few places on Earth that provide you with everything you need to create a superb meal! No matter if you’re from the mountains or the coast, there are things to eat that are so different from one another, but still come from the same place!
Advice to rising/aspiring chefs? What do you wish someone had said to you:
Don't do it! No, seriously. This is a tough career to make for yourself; the lifestyle is not glamorous, like it is portrayed on television. You must be willing to make sacrifices, to miss out on things. But if you truly love it, have fun with it, as it is very fulfilling to know that people truly enjoy the work you put into every plate!
Now you're out to eat around town. Favorite sup spots?
Raleigh has some great restaurants; some of my favorites are probably not what most chefs would say. I have a serious addiction to two things: pork and sushi! Some of my favorite places to tuck a napkin in my collar and eat some good barbecue would have to be The Pit and Coopers. For sushi, Mura and Waraji. That's not to say I don't enjoy some good meals elsewhere, but those are the places you find me at the most!
What's the dream for Adam Jones? What's next? Give us the skinny:
The dream ... it is ever-changing, I have a hard time making decisions on things like that. But I have a feeling ownership is next! I'll keep you posted!
